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STIRRING UP DELIGHTS: Chef Giovanni Federico
There
are no Italian eateries in the city that know
the art of making real ravioli.
Or
so Chef Giovanni Federico would have you believe.
The dough must be fresh, so delicate that a valuable
amount ends up in the garbage can for want of
the right consistency.
Well
into a memorable meal, one is persuaded that Chef
Giovanni isn't talking through his hat.
Sixty-seven-year-old
Giovanni, besides being right, is the owner of
Don Giovanni, the Italian restaurant in Juhu,
insists that his ravioli, arguably the best this
city has to offer, should be the main course (as
opposed to the blasphemous practice of pieces
being shared at a table) with slices of pizza
serving only as appetisers. "Si, the ravioli
you're eating has 500 years of culture.
This
is the only restaurant in this city that makes
authentic Italian food. Under no circumstances
will I compromise on my pride in that," says
a petulant Giovanni, who opened his restaurant
in December 2002.
Pictures
of the Spanish operas Don Giovanni and Carmen
adorn the walls of the restaurant where the furniture
is imported from Italy.
A
little sign at the door forbids parents to bring
children who can't sit quietly - here obviously
eating is serious business.
Born
in the south of Italy, Giovanni, besides being
a painter and operatic singer in his free time,
studied to be a textile designer though his family
had been in the catering business for generations.
He worked alongside designer Giorgio Armani for
the Nino Cerruti label for eight years in the
Sixties.
Fate brought him to India when he was 50 years
old as general manager of Benetton's operations
in Mumbai. After he tired of his job, he pursued
his first love: cooking.
He
managed Little Italy, also in Juhu, for a time,
till the management told him to add a Mexican
menu to the Italian one. In characteristic vexation,
Giovanni threw in his towel and started Don Giovanni.
He's been in India 17 years and after recently
marrying his fiancée of 10 years, Felicia,
he has no plans of leaving.
He
laughs, "I was 75 kg when I came here, now
I'm 100 kg. India agrees with me. I used to paint
when I was angry or didn't have money. Now I'm
so happy and in love, that I don't paint anymore."
More's the pity.
Giovanni
refuses to Indianise any of his dishes - no adding
of a few extra chillies to appease your fiery
palate unless the original recipe demands it.
He insists that his food is not sprinkled with
Italian (like his English), it is Italian - just
like they eat it in Italy. "I don't pretend
that everybody must like. But this is the only
way I'll make it."
Meanwhile,
in spite of his intractability, or because of
it, Giovanni's cuisine is steadily gaining repute.
Yash
and Aditya Chopra, Anupam Kher and Naseeruddin
Shah are among regulars here.
The
pizza, spaghetti and ravioli are must-tries. The
pricing is certainly not cheap, but since you're
promised your money's worth, it might be worth
your while.
raksha@mid-day.com
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